Choosing the right plumbing pipe isn’t just about what fits the budget. It’s about what fits your home, local water conditions, and future. Some materials hold up better under heat, others resist corrosion, and a few are surprisingly flexible when space is tight.
How Copper Pipes Hold Up When You Want Longevity and Performance
If you’re thinking about reliability and don’t mind a higher upfront cost, copper piping has a lot going for it. It doesn’t rust like steel, and it doesn’t degrade from UV exposure like some plastics. You can run it inside or outside walls without worrying about sunlight breaking it down.
That helps when you’ve got pipes running through open crawl spaces or attics with vents. Copper resists bacteria and doesn’t give off strange smells or tastes, which makes it a favorite for homes that pull water from wells or older municipal lines.
That said, copper doesn’t love hard water. Minerals can leave behind limescale that narrows the inside of the pipe. You might not notice right away, but as the minerals build up, your pressure drops. And if you’re in acidic water, the pipe walls can start to pit. That’s when tiny leaks begin. You’ll find little green spots where water has reacted with the copper. If left alone, they spread. So while copper lasts a long time in neutral or soft water areas, you’ll want to test your water before committing.
PEX Is Flexible in More Ways Than One
PEX pipes don’t need as many fittings, which changes how you design your plumbing system. You can bend it around corners, weave it through tight spaces, and run it through long spans without cutting it. That reduces your chances of leaks. Fewer joints mean fewer places where things can go wrong. And that flexibility becomes a real asset when you’re dealing with remodels, tight basements, or homes with irregular framing.
One thing to keep in mind is how PEX handles heat. It’s great for hot water lines inside a home, but it shouldn’t be left exposed outdoors. UV rays degrade it fast. That means you can’t store rolls outside before installing them, and you shouldn’t run lines where sunlight might touch them through a window or vent. PEX also expands and contracts with temperature swings, so if you’re working in an attic or unheated space, you’ll need to allow room for movement.
If you clamp it too tightly, it’ll push back and pull fittings loose. Although PEX is durable, rodents tend to chew on it more than copper or steel. If you’ve seen signs of mice or squirrels near your plumbing, keep that risk in mind.
CPVC Brings Simplicity With Specific Limits
When you want something similar to PVC but can handle hot water, CPVC makes a lot of sense. It glues up like a standard plastic pipe and is budget-friendly. You can use it instead of copper for hot and cold lines inside the house, and you don’t need expensive tools to cut or connect it. That’s what makes it appealing for people doing pipe repairs or partial replacements.
What trips people up with CPVC is how brittle it becomes in cold weather or under stress. If it gets bumped, overtightened, or pressed against a stud, it can crack after the pressure is back on. And if your water pressure is too high or your fittings aren’t properly supported, vibration can wear on the pipe over time. That’s not something you’ll see until it leaks.
CPVC also reacts poorly to certain types of pipe dope and glues meant for PVC. It needs its own type of cement. Always read the label when you’re working with this stuff. The pipe might look like its cousins, but the chemistry is different.
Galvanized Steel Has History but Not Staying Power
Older homes sometimes still rely on galvanized steel. For decades, it was the go-to before PEX and copper became more accessible. At the time, it made sense. Galvanized steel was strong and didn’t corrode as quickly as plain iron. But over the years, the zinc coating that gives it protection wears off. Once that barrier is gone, rust moves fast.
You might notice it in your water before you see it in your pipes. A reddish tint, lower pressure, or flakes in the faucet are signs that the pipe is breaking down from the inside. Unlike copper or PEX, you can’t see the damage unless you cut the pipe open. That means you’re guessing. When you replace one section, the stress of cutting and threading can shift rust to a nearby spot.
If you’re dealing with galvanized steel, patching might not make sense. A full repipe saves you from playing whack-a-mole with leaks. Be aware that removing these pipes can take time. The threads seize, and the pipe might be locked behind old plaster or tile.
PVC Pipes Work in Drains, Not Supply Lines
People, sometimes, think of PVC as a one-size-fits-all pipe. It’s not. It works great for drain lines, vents, and some irrigation. But it can’t handle hot water, and it’s not rated for drinking water. If you try to run it for supply lines, you’re setting yourself up for problems. PVC softens under heat and can leach chemicals into the water. That’s why it stays on the waste side of the plumbing world.
For drain systems, however, PVC is easy to cut, fit, and seal. It’s lighter than cast iron, and you can install long runs without much effort. But you need to dry-fit before gluing because the cement bonds fast and if you glue a joint crooked, it’s stuck. If you apply too much pressure while fitting the pipe, you can warp the bell end.
PVC can save you some strain if you’re replacing old cast iron waste pipes, but remember that sound will travel differently. Water rushing through a PVC stack makes more noise than in a cast iron pipe. If you run it behind walls or next to bedrooms, consider adding insulation. The pipe won’t fail from noise but can wear on your ears.
When to Mix Materials and When to Avoid It
In some homes, it makes sense to mix pipe types. You might have copper from the main, PEX branching to bathrooms, and PVC carrying the waste away. This kind of hybrid system saves cost without giving up performance. But it’s not as easy as connecting one to another and calling it done.
Different materials expand and contract at different rates. Some metals react when joined without a buffer. Dielectric connectors keep corrosion from building up where copper meets steel. Skip them and you’ll end up with leaks at the joint.
You also have to match pipe diameters and pressure ratings. A section of 3/4-inch PEX might not move as much water as a 3/4-inch copper line because of the way internal diameters are measured. If you’re switching materials mid-run, you could lose flow. That shows up in weak showers or slow fills at the sink.
Before you start a mixed system, sketch out where each type will go. Think about pressure, exposure, and access. Once the drywall goes up, it’s too late to swap out that one section you decided to test. A well-planned blend can give you the best of each type. A rushed job just creates weak spots.
We Can Help You Choose Materials Today
Davis & Green has been providing expert plumbing services in the Richmond, VA area since 1984, offering comprehensive solutions that including plumbing inspections, repiping services, water heater installations and repairs, fixture installations and more.
Schedule your pipe consultation today with Davis & Green.
